Why It Works
- Blooming the spices in sizzling ghee enhances their aromas and ends in a extra flavorful dish.
- Gently simmering the rooster prevents overcooking and retains it juicy and tender.
- Coating the rice with fats prevents the grains from sticking collectively, leading to fluffier rice.
Sharkaseya, also called Circassian rooster à la Egyptienne, pairs tender poached rooster and rice with a velvety walnut sauce—a mix that may sound extra European than Egyptian. In truth, it is a beloved staple in Egyptian houses and is widespread throughout the Levant, particularly in Jordan and Lebanon. Circassians, Muslims from the Northwest Caucasus, launched Circassian rooster to Egypt once they fled from Russian persecution within the late nineteenth century. Historically, there isn’t a rice in Circassian rooster; the unique dish consists of boiled rooster served with a wealthy paste of crushed walnuts, and is garnished with paprika oil.
In Egypt, the dish has been reimagined with native aptitude: Dried bay leaves, cinnamon, allspice berries, cloves, black peppercorns, inexperienced cardamom, and mastic beads infuse the rice and rooster with a heat complexity. The cooked rice and rooster are layered in a Bundt pan, reheated briefly within the oven, then unmolded and served with a luscious walnut sauce for a sublime presentation. At present, it is usually served at particular events and festive gatherings, together with Ramadan.
Critical Eats / Jatin Sharma
What Makes a Nice Sharkaseya
One of the best sharkaseya I’ve ever had was on the house of my Egyptian-Belgian pal of Turkish descent, Gina. The primary time she served it, I used to be mesmerized by the visible drama of her unmolding the chicken-rice mound onto a platter, letting the sauce circulate into its heart, then ending it with toasted walnuts and contemporary herbs. It was a dish that was hanging in each presentation and luxury.
An epic sharkaseya begins with a aromatic rooster broth, layered with heat spices. Earlier than making the broth, I dry-brine the rooster for not less than an hour (although 8 hours is greatest), which deeply seasons the meat and helps it keep juicy throughout cooking. Then I sear the rooster in scorching ghee with complete spices and aromatics till golden and deeply aromatic, then add water and gently simmer till the rooster is tender and the broth is aromatic.
Put together Rice for Sharkaseya
Egyptian short-grain rice (or Calrose rice) is historically utilized in sharkaseya for its pure starchiness, which helps it take in the flavors of the spices. It additionally holds its form effectively as soon as unmolded. For a lighter texture, basmati rice can be utilized, although it will not maintain its form as effectively and can yield a looser remaining dish. Sautéing the rice in ghee is essential right here: Coating the grains in fats helps them keep separate, leading to grains that keep separate and fluffy through the cooking course of. A fast fluff with a fork as soon as the rice is finished cooking ensures the right texture: tender but fluffy, with separate, plump grains that maintain their form with out being sticky or mushy. When cooked correctly, every grain ought to be mushy on the core and barely shiny on the skin.
Mastic beads come from the mastic tree, and are a standard ingredient in Center Japanese cooking. They’ve an earthy, piney taste, and right here, they complement the spices and infuse the rice with a nice woodsiness.
Getting the Creamy Walnut Sauce Proper
The walnut sauce is the soul of sharkaseya. To make it, I pulverize toasted walnuts with shards of frivolously toasted bread, then add sizzling broth to type a luscious, spoonable base. In a separate pan, I bloom minced garlic and coriander in ghee, then stir it into the walnut combination. A splash of cream rounds the perimeters, however I tread fastidiously, as an excessive amount of can mute the sauce’s nuttiness. I’ve examined different methods to make the sauce, together with with milk, paprika, and extra cream, however discovered they have an inclination to overpower the delicacy of the walnuts and dilute their taste.
The sauce is velvety and fragrant, with a nutty richness from the walnuts that is softened by a splash of cream. Infused with heat spices and enriched with rooster broth, it delivers layers of consolation—earthy, savory, and faintly candy all of sudden.
Critical Eats / Jatin Sharma
Assemble
What makes the dish so refined is the way it’s offered: Layers of rooster and rice are pressed right into a Bundt pan, heated briely, then inverted onto a plate for a showstopping dish that resembles a sublime layer cake.
Should you’re serving it instantly, invert the mould onto a big serving platter and pour the nice and cozy sauce into the groove that varieties across the molded rice. Alternatively, you’ll be able to put together the mould prematurely, refrigerate it, then reheat it within the oven earlier than serving—simply take note you’ll have to bake it for a couple of extra minutes. Unmold the sharkaseya and ladle the aromatic sauce over it, and serve the additional sauce on the facet. Whether or not ready for a weeknight dinner or a special day, sharkaseya is a dish that by no means fails to impress. And for a lot of Egyptians, together with myself, it is a meal that may at all times really feel comforting and nostalgic.
Critical Eats / Jatin Sharma
