Vibrant, crisp, white wines — the Sauvignon Blancs, Rieslings, and Albariños of the world — are normally finest unadorned: no oak barrel affect, nothing that will get in the best way of their recent, vivid attraction. And but, most of the prime Albariños from Spain’s coastal Rías Baixas area are aged on their lees earlier than bottling, a method extra typically related to wealthy white Burgundies or California Chardonnays than with zesty coastal whites.
In winemaking, lees are the spent yeasts from fermentation; as soon as yeasts convert the sugar in grape juice to alcohol, they die off and settle to the underside of the fermentation vessel, whether or not that’s an oak barrel or a chrome steel tank.
Classically, for a spread like Albariño, a winemaker would rack off the wine (i.e., switch it from one vessel to a different, leaving the sediment behind) earlier than letting it age till it was able to bottle. However leaving the wine involved with the lees can do some magical issues: It provides roundness and texture to the mouthfeel, helps shield the wine from future oxidation, and might impart a particular savory edge to its flavors — assume baked bread, nuts, and a sort of total umami depth.
In areas like Burgundy, lees ageing (or conserving the wine sur lie, if you happen to favor the French) is often carried out in oak barrels. However in Rías Baixas, this stage of the winemaking sometimes happens in a impartial tank; stainless-steel, most frequently, but additionally granite and even impartial wooden like a big, outdated, chestnut barrel.
In a way, the winemaker’s option to work this manner offers the wine the most effective of each worlds; it preserves, for Albariño, its innate grapefruit-to-pineapple brightness and salty minerality, however provides shocking layers of complexity. Listed below are 9 terrific bottles to take a look at.
2024 Pazo das Bruxas Albariño, DO Rías Baixas ($25)
Pazo das Bruxas is the entry-level wine from the Torres household’s mission in Rías Baixas, a grapefruity, melony Albariño that’s a mix of O Rosal and Val do Salnés fruit. It’s tart and refreshing, preferrred for uncooked seafood of any form. For extra depth and complexity, hunt down the pricier Pazo Torre Panelas Blanco Granito Albariño ($60), which comes from a single winery within the Val do Salnés and is fermented (and aged on the lees for eight months) in granite eggs.
2024 Quinta de Couselo Rosal ($25)
A tiny contact of Loureiro and Caiño Blanco offers this white from the O Rosal zone in Rías Baixas a calmly natural/floral perfume, whereas six months ageing on nice lees provides presence to the palate. It’s crisp and zippy, in different phrases, however with some richness as nicely.
2024 Granbazán Etiqueta Ámbar Albariño ($27)
Granbazán’s Etiqueta Ambar sources grapes from vineyards which can be a minimum of 40 years outdated, largely in Cambados and Meandro within the Salnés Valley. The juice undergoes a couple of hours of pores and skin contact earlier than fermentation, after which receives eight months of ageing on lees in stainless-steel tanks, leading to a sublime, lemon blossom–scented white.
2022 Fillaboa Selección Finca Monte Alto Albariño ($35)
A single small plot of vines on the Fillaboa property alongside the River Miño is the supply for this always-impressive Albariño. Ripe citrus and melon notes mix on the palate, together with tingly citrus-peel acidity. Finca Monte Alto can be a wine that may develop impressively for a number of years in a wine fridge, if you wish to put a couple of bottles away.
NV Paco & Lola ‘Lola’ Glowing Albariño ($42)
A full two years on the lees within the bottle offers this spectacular glowing Albariño deep yeasty/baked bread notes, which lead into the recent grapefruit-inflected taste. Anybody in search of a cool Champagne different (or Prosecco different, or some other sort of glowing wine different) ought to verify this one out.
2023 Nanclares y Prieto ‘O Bocoi Vella de Silvia’ Rías Baixas Albariño ($45)
Alberto Nanclares and Silvia Prieto take a hands-off method to winemaking (native yeasts, minimal sulfur use, no components of any form) for his or her whole vary of Albariños, which come from organically farmed, old-vine parcels. For this calmly oxidative, richly flavorful white, the wine finishes fermentation in a single 90-year-old chestnut barrel, then rests on the lees there for 9 months.
2022 Attis Embaixador Albariño ($53)
A single winery of 60-year-old vines within the Val do Salnés area gives the grapes for this potent, full-bodied Albariño, its richness lifted by scintillating acidity. It spends two years on its lees, the primary in granite tanks after which in stainless-steel. This can be a main-course Albariño — or, serve it with a platter of basic, smoked paprika-spiced pulpo a la gallega.
2021 Pazo Barrantes Gran Vino Albariño ($55)
Most Albariños are put available on the market as quickly as potential, however Pazo Barrantes prefers to carry their wines again, permitting them to develop complexity over time within the vineyard’s cellar earlier than they’re launched. This classic has a fairly nostril of savory herbs, with spherical tangerine and grapefruit flavors, and a light-weight nutty be aware from lees ageing. Most of it’s made in stainless-steel tanks, however 15% is aged in acacia wooden barrels.
2015 Pazo de Señoráns Selección de Añada Albariño ($89)
The grapes for Pazo de Señoráns’ prime wine, Selección de Añada, are grown on a small, old-vine parcel straight behind the vineyard, on shallow soils over what’s successfully a strong layer of granite. The wine stays in stainless-steel tanks on its lees for totally two and a half years earlier than bottling.
“Once we began making Selección Añada in 1995, individuals thought it was odd,” says winemaker Ana Quintela Suárez. “White wines had been all imagined to be younger. What I wish to recall is the traditional Albariño fashion, from a time when the wine was saved in massive picket tanks. It’s a rounder, richer fashion, maybe not with such recent fruit, however with far more class.”
That’s completely true of this classic, and whereas the wine isn’t cheap, it’s one of many nice white wines of Spain, and to not be missed.
